We Spanish love music, song, humour, party and spectacle, and at this time of year it all comes together in spectacular fashion at carnival.
While events to celebrate the run up to Lent are held in cities, towns and villages all around Spain, one of the most famous, impressive and historical is that to be found in Cádiz.
Hundreds of thousands of people flock to the ancient Andalusian city each year to join the locals who throng the streets in this ultimate expression of fun and joy that is characterised above all by humour, satire and music.
In many ways it is anti-authoritarian—a time when traditional rules of society and respect for your ‘betters’ are consigned to the dustbin, with satirical songs poking fun at society’s ‘great and good’. Politicians, clergy, football players and celebrities are cheerfully mocked and the colourful costumes of the groups of street musicians to be found around every corner often cleverly make a statement that backs up the satirical message of their songs.
This anti-establishmentarian message has not always been appreciated—Spanish dictator Franco, who was not famous for his sense of humour, banned carnival for 40 years, viewing it as a possible fount of sedition.
The people of Cádiz were having none of it however and continued to celebrate carnival under a different name. From 1947 until 1976 they were known as the Fiestas Típicas Gaditanas (Traditional Cádiz Festivities) and held on different dates to the normal carnival slot immediately preceding Lent.
The roots of Carnival are said to go back to Roman times and in Cádiz it is thought to have been brought to the city by Genoese traders in the 16th Century, who decided to try to outdo Venice in their celebrations. The fun-loving people of Cádiz took to the party celebrations immediately and carnival in the city grew into one of the most important events in Spain.
While at other major carnivals in Spain—Santa Cruz de Tenerife is the main rival to Cádiz—elaborate costumes take centre stage, Cádiz’s celebrations are centred on music. That is not to say people don’t dress up—costumes and fancy dress are essential, and if you don’t join in you will be considered something of a party pooper. In Tenerife this focus on costumes gives the event a more Latin American vibe with hugely extravagant costumes a big draw to the fun event that has Samba and Afro-Latino rhythms providing the soundtrack. Beauty pageants abound and the visual delights of carnival hold sway.
But in Cádiz a different sort of music is the defining feature of the carnival. Choirs, consisting of groups of between three and 40 singers, are central to the festivities, and they perform a variety of genres that give the carnival its identity. Main event is The Falla Contest—a music festival held in the Gran Téatro Falla that starts off celebrations lasting over a period of around 20 days.
The whole thing is televised and hotly contested, it being considered a great honour to be among the winners. Competition is keen, and contestants spend months in preparation in a bid to scoop up the honours.
There are four main types of musical groups at Cádiz’s carnival—chirigotas, comparsas, coros and cuartetos.
Comparsas
These groups of around 15 singers rehearse throughout the year to sing satirical songs about politics, newsworthy topics and also everyday life. They boast a wide repertoire of original compositions, which they sing in the streets and squares, both at improvised venues like outdoor staircases as well as at organised open-air tablaos (tableaux) organised by the many carnival clubs. They are characterised as being more serious than the chirigotas, utilising biting wit and compete at the Falla for a group award.
Chirigotas
Like the comparsas, chirigotas wear costumes and perform a repertoire of songs about current affairs. The difference is the emphasis is on comedy and the tunes and lyrics more upbeat, even if they use the same subject matter. Chirigotas are choirs of usually ten close-harmony singers and the literary quality of the songs can be very high, with local authors often responsible for the lyrics.
Coros
The colourful choirs (coros) are transported through the streets on open floats accompanied by guitarists and lute players singing a combination of serious and comic songs, with an emphasis on paying homage to Cádiz and its people. These singers are quite a sight to see as they are garbed in the finest and most elaborate costumes to be found at the carnival.
Cuartetos
Although named quartets, in keeping with the ‘anything goes’ principle of carnival these arrangements can in fact feature three, four or five members. They are purely comedic acts and perform theatre skits and improvisations, with music traditionally accompanied by a kazoo and two sticks to produce a beat.
As well as the musicians, a traditional form of entertainment is embodied by the solo romanceros. They represent the oldest facet of satirical carnival as they wander the streets carrying a big easel. Posters on the easel help them illustrate their story as they point at aspects of the pictures whilst reciting humorous verses.
Falling outside these categories are the ilegales—small groups of friends and family who take part in no official events, but wander freely to entertain the crowds wherever they encounter them.
In addition to the singing groups in the street, there are rock, flamenco and samba concerts amongst others. Children’s entertainment including puppet shows can be found and colourful processions of the carnival King and Queen attract big crowds too, along with the daily fireworks displays.
Officially the Cádiz carnival of 2016 will run from Thursday February 4th to Sunday February 14th. Most carnivals end at the start of Lent, but in Cádiz they cannot get too much of a good thing, so events carry on for a few more days. There are parades on the Sundays before and after Ash Wednesday (February 10th) including the ‘burial of the sardine’, which traditionally concludes the festivities.
Below is a guide to some of the main events. Bear in mind that it is subject to confirmation. The official guide is here.
Thursday (February 4th)
The carnival starts with the switching on of the lights.
Friday (February 5th)
Final of the singing contest
Announcement of the Carnival Queen
Saturday (February 6th)
The official opening of carnival
The choirs perform (Carrusel de coros) in Puerta Tierra
Romanceros competition
The Carnival Queen is crowned
Opening proclamation (Pregon)
Sunday (February 7th)
The choirs perform (Carrusel de coros)
Main parade
Fireworks in La Caleta
Monday (February 8th)
The choirs perform (Carrusel de coros)
Tuesday (February 9th)
Burning of Dios Momo (giant effigy)
Friday (February 12th)
The choirs perform (Carrusel de coros) in la Viña
Concerts
Saturday (February 13th) (Sabado de Piñata)
Panizada popular—serving of traditional fried bread with fish roe
Homage to the comparsistas
Concerts
Sunday (February 14th) (Domingo de Piñata)
The choirs perform (Carrusel de coros)
Serving of fried fish
Burning of the Bruja Piti (giant effigy)
Fireworks in La Caleta
Parade of the giant sardine
Massimo Filippa
